Features of growing tropical columnea at home

Features of growing tropical columnea at home

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Columnea is an original and beautiful vine native to equatorial America. But for some reason, she is found in apartments less often than her relatives - for example, kaleria and gloxinia. There are, of course, some nuances in growing it, but this is not a reason to abandon the beautiful Tropicana Columnaea.

Description of the plant

Columney is an ampelous plant from the Gesneriaceae family that grows in tropical regions of America.

The stems are flexible, their length can reach 2 m. Leaves are fleshy, small, up to 4 cm long, hard, elongated-oval, oppositely located on the stem.

Columnea flowers can be yellow, orange, red, less often pink

The two upper petals of the flower are connected and form the so-called hood. Fruits are white spherical in shape.

Kaleria and Gloxinia are the relatives of the Columnea. Column is sometimes called a room orchid, however, they have no relationship with the orchid.

Columnea looks especially impressive in hanging pots, flower pots.

Columnea species

There are the following types of columnea:

  1. Columnaea Consanguina is a shrub plant with a brown hairy stem that grows up to 1.5 m. The leaves are arranged in pairs, but one leaf is always smaller than the other, so it seems that the leaves are arranged alternately. The flowers are pale yellow.
  2. Columney krakatoa - epiphyte (a plant that needs support - another plant, for example). One of the most common among flower growers, it is very often used in decorating a home or office. The flowers are very bright, the leaves completely cover the trunk.
  3. Carnival. It is valued for its numerous flowers, on the bright yellow petals of which a red border is noticeable. The plant is small, it can bloom for a whole year.
  4. Columnea red is distinguished by creeping thick shoots, lanceolate leaves.
  5. Columbus Banks. It is unpretentious in care, therefore it is also widespread. The stems are drooping, branching strongly. The leaves that are green on top are red on the underside. Flowers up to 6 cm in length, red-orange with a yellow throat.
  6. Nice and small-leaved - plants with pubescent leaves. Their flowers are similar in shape and color, however, the leaves of the glorious columnea are about 8 cm, and the leaves of small-leaved ones are only 1 cm.
  7. Columnea thick-leaved is distinguished by erect shoots.
  8. Columnea cius is an ampelous plant, the dark green leaves of which seem to be carved from the skin.
  9. Other types of columnea are less common in decorative floriculture. This is a bucket columney, a Morton columney, a sharp columney, Allen's columney.

Photo gallery: different types of columnea

Table: conditions by seasons

Planting and transplanting

Columnea can be transplanted immediately after flowering. You need to take a wide and shallow pot. Option of a mixture of land (the main requirement is the absence of lime): equal parts of turf and leaf land, 1 /2 part of peat, charcoal, sand and chopped sphagnum moss - 1 /4 part. Columnea will also grow well in purchased universal soil.

Before transplanting, the shoots of the kolumnei are cut in half.

A transplant, as a rule, is required once every 2 years, when the roots of the plant are entwined with an earthen lump. It is not necessary to clean off the old soil, the columnea is carefully taken out, rearranged together with the earth in a new pot, sprinkled with fresh substrate.

When planting a columnea in a pot, there must be drainage


Proper watering and timely feeding, as well as the necessary conditions during flowering and dormancy, will help you feel better all year round.


The flower will not like the water, which contains lime. He will tell about it with drying leaves. Therefore, be sure to use filtered water. In addition, its temperature must be at least 20 aboutFROM. The soil should dry out a little between waterings. Moisture stagnation must not be allowed.

Watering is moderate in winter and quite frequent in summer.

In the summer, the columnea needs to be watered often with filtered warm water.

Top dressing

Columnea especially needs feeding when flower buds appear (usually late winter). For fertilization, you can use purchased mixtures for indoor plants, only you need to take half as much as indicated in the instructions. Columnea is fed 1 time in 7-10 days until the beginning of October.

Fertilizer for blooming columnea is sold in stores

Flowering period

Columnea begins to bloom in the spring, but only under favorable conditions. If flowering does not occur, then you can try the following: slightly limit watering and lower the temperature. Such measures should stimulate the appearance of flowers. And also the columnea may refuse to bloom due to too dry air.

Dormant period

In the fall, flower buds are laid for the next season. At this time, the temperature of the room where the columnea grows should be reduced to 10-12 aboutFROM. After 45-50 days, the plant will develop buds 0.5 cm in size - this is a sign that it is necessary to rearrange the plant to a warmer place (16-18 aboutFROM).

The dormant period is an important stage in the life of a plant; it cannot be neglected. If the wintering period is not maintained or even shortened, the columbine in spring and summer can stand without flowers.

During the rest period, it is more necessary to provide a cool temperature.

Plant formation

Columnea is a fast growing plant. For a year, its shoots can grow up to 50 cm. Often the stems lose their attractive appearance, because they become bare (this can happen due to unfavorable conditions or mistakes in care). Therefore, every year after flowering, it is recommended to rejuvenate the plant - cut off part of the shoots, root some of them in order to get new columnea bushes. Pruning a plant, in addition to aesthetic purposes, has another important value - stimulating the next flowering.

Care errors

Some conditions may not be pleasing to the coldest, and she will react to this with appropriate symptoms. Diseases and pests are practically not terrible for this plant, especially with proper care, but an omnivorous spider mite can attack the plant.

To combat spider mites, it is recommended to treat the columnea with special means in the fall.

Table: care errors and how to fix them

Video: caring for the columnea

Reproduction of columnea

The optimal time for plant propagation by cuttings is mid-April.

Instructions for grafting:

  1. It is necessary to cut the cuttings from the shoots of the plant. Cuttings should be at least 7 cm long, with 2 leaves.
  2. Plant in a mixture of peat and sand, cover with a glass jar or plastic. You can plant 8-10 pieces in one container, then you get a lush plant.
  3. Provide bottom heating at 20-24 aboutFROM.
  4. Water, but do not spray, as this is fraught with leaf rot. It will take 3-4 weeks for rooting.
  5. When the stalk grows a little, plant it in a separate pot.

    It will take 3-4 weeks for the rooting of Columnea cuttings

It is difficult to propagate columnea by seeds, since special greenhouses with a constant air temperature are needed, so cuttings are the best way - fast and reliable.

Gloxinia, a related plant, is propagated in several other ways: https://diz-cafe.com/rastenija/gloksiniya-razmnozhenie-listom.html

Video: grafting columnea


Actually, I would say that I am not babysitting her. Was on the balcony at a temperature of 10 aboutC (outside the window, the balcony is not insulated), I water it with not always filtered water (I don't always have enough of it for all flowers), spraying is rarely extreme. I bought through a supplier, came with buds, which have faded safely from me. At the same time, the stalk rooted in the tablet is also good. Recently I learned that the columbine is a relative of Saintpaulia))) Honestly surprised, except for velvet leaves, I don't see anything in common. I recommend the flower is very beautiful in a hanging planter, especially when it blooms. But during the rest period it is also very original.

I love different flowers, but I prefer the Gesneriaceae family. Adult specimens of columbus do well in hanging pots. They love a lot of light, but the direct sun can kill them. They react in the same way to both overflow and overdrying by dropping foliage. The most picky varieties are old varieties - Krokotau, Fujiyama. They take root easily, the main thing is not to make long cuttings when rooting. More capricious varieties are variegated, but nevertheless, you can find a common language with them.

I can’t find a common language with her, I like the columbians very much, but, apparently, I’m very hot and they don’t grow. Already transplanted them, turned green a little, let's see what happens next. For the experiment, I started an escinantus, which is very similar to them, so this one grows by leaps and bounds, and the columnei, as in a stupor.

It seems that plenty of light and humid, at least locally, air is the main thing for the columnists. For 2 years now they have been living on a chair in their corner on the southern windowsill. True, the window is partly covered with a material like thin lutrasil. I did not transplant, one was sold already with a mane, the second itself grew, the other two are now growing in braids since autumn with might and main. In cups about 12 cm, on wicks in a common seedling tray, they practically do not dry out, the soil is perlite with an ordinary peat mixture in half, water, however, is distillate.

At the beginning of spring, I took a faded bending column from a flower shop - the vidocq was very, to put it mildly, the saddest, I took it out of pity. Transplanted. Now she looks pretty decent with me - she has fluffed up, gave a lot of root shoots, and this is despite the northern balcony). During all this time, I have not even seen fertilizers at my place. I would boldly say that kolumnea is one of the easiest plants to care for.

Columney cannot be called an unpretentious flower. In unfavorable conditions, she will adapt to live, but will not bloom. For high-quality growth, the plant needs bright light, watering with soft warm water and the right wintering conditions.

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Latin name: Tolumnia

Types of "Tolumnia"


  • 1. Description
  • 2. Growing
  • 3. Diseases and pests
  • 4. Reproduction
  • 5. First steps after purchase
  • 6. Secrets of success
  • 7. Possible difficulties


The genus Tolumnia from the Orchid family has approximately 30 species. In nature, flowers lead an epiphytic existence. The clan received independence not so long ago, initially it was attached to Oncidium.

Tolumnia does not have false bulbs, in some species the stems grow close, in others they are distant. Moisture and nutrient stores are stored in the leaves. Thick leaf plates are lanceolate, with pointed tips and jagged edges.

The rosette formed from the leaves produces a peduncle bearing from one to several dozen buds. Flowering lasts a long time, and in most species it is repeated in an extremely short time. The rosette stops growing, but it produces babies and then diligently feeds them. Naturally, with an increase in rosettes, the number of peduncles increases, and flowering becomes more abundant.

Tolumnia flowers are painted in various colors: white, red, yellow, purple, brown. Contrasting spots create unique patterns. These orchids are notable for the fact that the buds that have opened on one peduncle often differ in color solutions.

The most prominent part of the flower is the fan-shaped lip, which is larger than the petals and sepals. Some types of Tolumnia have not only a high decorative effect, but also a pleasant aroma.


To gain strength for the next flowering, Tolumnia needs a long rest. Typically, this period lasts from November to February. At this time, the orchid is deprived of feeding and is limited in watering. The fact that it is time to return to standard care is signaled by the appearance of a peduncle.

When growing Tolumnia in a pot, a transplant is necessary every 2-3 years. The orchid must be carefully removed from the container, shake off the outdated substrate. Damaged or dried roots should be removed. It is allowed to do the same with the lower leaves if they have turned yellow and / or have lost their turgor.

The best time to transplant is the end of flowering. A plant that has moved into a new vessel or block is kept in a "dry" regime to allow the roots to heal wounds and avoid decay.

Adult Tolumnia, if desired, can be multiplied. The bush is divided into parts so that each new plant gets at least 3 stems.

Diseases and pests

Spider mites, aphids, fungal diseases.


First steps after purchase

Tolumnia, like many other representatives of orchids, is relatively rarely attacked by pests. However, quarantine is required for a new flower collection.

It is not recommended to disturb a blooming orchid. In all other conditions, you should not postpone the transplant procedure until later. If you plan to grow in a container, a narrow and shallow pot with lots of drainage holes will do. When placed on a block, you will need sphagnum. It will protect the roots from drying out.

In the early days, Tolumnia should be kept in partial shade, gradually accustoming to bright lighting.

Success secrets

Tolumnia is a fairly easy-to-care orchid. She loves bright light, she is not afraid of the morning and evening direct sunlight. However, midday shading is necessary.

This orchid is quite satisfied with room temperatures. Tolumnia without damage tolerates 30-degree heat and cold snap up to + 14˚C. But without a decrease in air temperature at night, flower growth slows down.

Watering is the most difficult and responsible component of care. When growing on a block, moisten the substrate or roots only when necessary. The accumulation of moisture provokes decay and death of the root system. The roots should dry, but not dry out. Good results are obtained by installing humidifiers. Spraying is also permissible, but with the indispensable observance of two conditions: carry out the procedure only in the first half of the day, spray not Tolumnia itself, but the air around it.

During active growth, the flower is fed with special fertilizers for orchids, adding them to the water for irrigation.

After the end of flowering, the peduncle is not removed. Tolumnia gives a second and sometimes a third flowering on the same peduncle.

Possible difficulties

Reasons: 1) the rest period is not provided, 2) premature removal of the peduncle.

Reasons: 1) draft, 2) movement of the container.

Changing the color of sheet plates

Reasons: 1) excessive lighting (the appearance of red or white spots), 2) lack of lighting (dark green color).

Slowdown in growth, weakening

Reasons: 1) excessive watering, 2) dry air.

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Conditions required for indoor columbia - table

Spring Summer+ 20-27 ° СHigh humidity required. This requires regular spraying with water at room temperature or slightly warmer (up to 30 ° C). An excellent option would be to locate the flower next to an indoor fountain or aquarium.Light is needed bright, but diffused. It is better to place it on a window of western or eastern orientation. In this case, the flower must be positioned so that the light falls on it from all sides.
Autumn winterIn October and November, the columnea lays flower buds, while the process should take place at a lower temperature.During the day it should be + 15–18 ° С, and at night - + 8–12 ° С. In winter, the temperature of keeping the "flying goldfish" should be + 15–17 ° С.Spraying once a week. If the plant is in bloom, water droplets should be avoided.Additional illumination with a phytolamp is required, daylight hours should be about 12 hours.

Columbus: basic information and features of care

A cascading waterfall of shoots with bizarre flowers is often referred to as one of the varieties of orchids by inexperienced lovers of ornamental plants.

But the kolumneya, which is considered difficult to take care of at home, is related to the familiar Usambar violet. In fact, the content of the columnea is not so burdensome.

The main thing is to choose the right place for its placement and comply with a number of "requirements" of a tropical beauty.

General information about the columne

The name of the plant was given by Carl Linnaeus, immortalizing the name of the 16th century Italian explorer Fabio Colonna. It is an evergreen epiphyte, a perennial from the Gesneriaceae family. Many varieties of kolumnei are ampelous, but some of them are dwarf shrubs and shrubs. Tubular flowers are varied in color and shape. A two-lipped corolla with a hood is formed by the merging of the upper petals.

The length of variegated or monochromatic hard leaves usually does not exceed 4 cm, but in some species it reaches impressive sizes (up to 30 cm). They have a leathery texture and a glossy sheen. Columnea stems can be creeping, drooping and perfectly straight. Its shoots are usually covered with light nap.

The homeland of most species of the plant is the forests of the tropical part of South and Central America. Over 200 species and varieties of plants have been recorded, but most of them grow only in their natural habitat. The main types of columnea suitable for decorative floriculture:

  • blood red
  • Alyona
  • crassul-leaved
  • linear
  • climbing
  • acute
  • small-leaved
  • pubescent
  • glorious
  • Shida.

There are other decorative varieties. The most unpretentious is the Banks Column with reddish-orange flowers and waxy leaves.

During its selection, the kolumney krakatau variety was created with an erect trunk, small leaves and "fiery" flowers. When in bloom, it resembles the eruption of the eponymous volcano, hence the name.

Columnea carnival is a successful hybrid with small leaves that have a red color on the underside, and rather large yellow flowers with a red border.

The main characteristics of the plant

Columnea is a perennial plant that eventually loses its decorative effect and needs rejuvenation. It grows fast enough. The annual growth of shoots is up to 50 cm. To prevent falling, the leaves are periodically pruned.

In comfortable conditions, the kolumnea blooms twice a year. Then white berries with seeds appear in place of flowers. If the plant "refuses" to bloom, the process is stimulated by slightly reducing watering and lowering the temperature of the content. Plants are capable of flowering 8-10 months after rooting. Reproduction of columneas is carried out:

  • seeds
  • cuttings
  • dividing the rhizome.

Sexual reproduction

Seed propagation is the prerogative of professionals. The required temperature regime for seed germination is achievable only in a specially constructed greenhouse. Reproduction itself consists of the spring planting of seeds and the subsequent picking of sprouts.

Vegetative propagation

Columnea cuttings are carried out after flowering. Having cut off the upper parts of the plant (about 5 cm), they are planted in small containers with a mixture of equal proportions of peat and sand and covered with caps.

In soil around 20 ° C, they take root after three to four weeks. All this time, the cuttings are watered without spraying - to prevent leaf decay.


You can divide the rhizome of the plant 4-6 years after planting, if initially several cuttings were planted in the pot at once.

Important! Columnea cuttings are able to take root in sand, a mixture of peat, humus and perlite, in water devoid of lime.

Care features

In nature, columnea usually grow on trees without parasitizing them. As an epiphyte, the houseplant Columnaea receives most of the substances and moisture necessary for nutrition from the air.


In the warm season, the colum needs a moderate temperature - 18-20 ° C, in winter the plant must be taken out to a cool place (10-12 ° C). A similar "wintering" of the plant should be arranged for 45-50 days, protecting it from drafts. It activates the bookmark of flower buds. Their appearance will signal that the "awakened" colum needs warmth.


Columnea does not tolerate dry air. It should be regularly sprayed with soft warm water. In summer, moisture should not get on the flowers. In the cold season, it is not the flower that is sprayed, but the air next to it. The foliage is recommended to have a shower twice a month, then drying it in a warm, dark place. Any measures to humidify the air around the columnea are appropriate:

  • florarium device
  • placement above the aquarium
  • equipment of the pallet with moistened expanded clay
  • location among other plants.

Important! It is not recommended to spray columneas with pubescent leaves. Water is sprayed next to them.


The plant likes reflected light, direct sunlight often causes leaf burns. In summer, the column from the windows on the south side of the building should be removed or provided with effective darkening. In winter, on the contrary, it must be placed on the southern windowsills - here the flower will receive the required amount of light. When there is a lack of lighting, a phytolamp is used.

The soil

Loose lightweight soil enriched with nutrients is suitable for columnea.

A self-prepared mixture should contain an equal amount of compost (turf) soil and deciduous humus. It is necessary to add a little peat and charcoal (bone meal) to it.

There should be no lime in the components of the mixture. The dishes are used wide and low, with an obligatory drainage layer.


Moderate watering is recommended. The water should be soft, settled (ideally filtered). Watering frequency is related to air temperature. In the spring and summer, the columnea is watered twice a week. In autumn and winter, three waterings per month are enough. The top layer of soil in the pot should dry out between waterings.


In the period from spring to autumn, columnea carry out complex feeding every 14 days. If additional lighting was used in winter, and the flower continues to grow actively, top dressing is carried out once every 21 days. When the flowers of the columnea bloom, liquid fertilizers enriched with potassium and phosphorus are used. A special condition is that there should be no lime in the fertilizers.

Important! Columnea is transplanted after flowering, no more than once a year. Before transplanting, the stems are pruned.

Experts attribute the columnea to moderately demanding indoor flowers in terms of care. If not properly maintained, it can survive, but its growth will noticeably slow down. Other negative consequences are also possible:

  1. The appearance of spots on the leaves (watering with insufficiently warm water, spraying in the sun)
  2. Yellowing, leaf falling (lack of light, insufficient humidity and inappropriate air temperature, excessive drying out of the soil in the warm season)
  3. Rolled leaves (moisture deficiency)
  4. Rotten stems (excessive watering when kept in the cold)
  5. Lack of flowering (non-observance of the temperature regime during the formation of buds)
  6. General wilting (root burn from excess fertilizer).


If the conditions for care are not followed, the column can be struck by:

  • spider mites
  • mealybugs (hairy lice)
  • whitefly
  • thrips.

Insecticides will help in pest control (Fitoverm, Agravertin, Actellik). Insects must be rinsed off with a directed stream of water before being treated with an insecticidal agent.

Common diseases

Columnians are very resistant to various diseases, but excessively moist soil can contribute to the formation of gray rot. A fluffy layer of mold can cover any organ of the plant. The affected areas are cut and burned. The plant is sprayed with a systemic fungicide (Topsin, Fundazol, Zuparen).

Subject to the simple rules of keeping the columnea, it can bloom anywhere. Biologically active substances secreted by the plant purify the air and have a beneficial effect on the human condition. But beginner florists should opt for the more common types. With insufficient experience of the grower, a plant with pubescent stems and leaves may die.

Watch the video: Growing tropical and exotic fruits in the UK and cold climates.


  1. Danton

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  2. Powwaw

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  3. Starling

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